Review · EDINBURGH
Private Old Edinburgh Tour – Walk in the footsteps of Royals and Rogues!
Edinburgh’s old streets can feel like a stage set, but this private walk takes you behind the postcard view. Starting at Greyfriars Kirkyard, you’ll follow stories of Mary, Queen of Scots, Bonnie Prince Charlie, Robert Burns, Burke and Hare, and the city’s grim execution sites. Robert, a lifelong Edinburgh resident and teacher, uses old photographs, props, and a good deal of humor to make the past feel close at hand.
I like the flexible pace and the way the walk reaches places many standard routes skip, especially Cowgate. I also like that Robert adjusts the tour to your interests, questions, and energy level. The main drawback is the subject matter: executions, murder, poverty, and prison life fill much of the two hours, so this is not the best choice if you want only pretty views and royal architecture.
Key points at a glance
- Greyfriars begins the story: Meet inside the main gate of one of Edinburgh’s most atmospheric burial grounds and hear the many versions of Greyfriars Bobby’s tale.
- Royal Mile with a darker edge: See sites linked to Mary, Queen of Scots, Deacon William Brodie, St Giles, Bonnie Prince Charlie, and the old Mercat Cross.
- Three former execution sites: The walk brings Edinburgh’s public punishments and criminal past into sharp focus.
- Cowgate gets its due: Learn what life was like for the city’s Victorian poor in an area many walking routes pass by.
- Robert shapes the experience: His teaching background, local roots, humor, images, and props suit visitors who like stories rather than a list of dates.
- Private and unhurried: Your group sets the pace, with a two-hour route ending near South Bridge.
Why this private walk works well in Edinburgh
Edinburgh’s Old Town is compact, but it is not simple. A single street can carry royal drama, religious conflict, public punishment, trade, poverty, and gruesome crime within a few minutes of walking. You can see the castle and the Royal Mile on your own, but the meaning of a close, a courtyard, or a crooked lane is much easier to grasp with a guide who knows the stories behind it.
That is the strength of this experience. It is not built around entering major attractions or ticking off grand interiors. Instead, it uses streets, graveyards, former prison sites, and small corners as evidence. Robert adds archive images so you can compare present-day Edinburgh with the city that stood there before modern roads, tourism, and polished shopfronts.
The private format matters. You do not have to keep up with a large group, and you can ask why a particular place matters instead of waiting for the guide to finish a fixed speech. The route lasts about two hours, long enough to cover several parts of the Old Town without turning into an all-day march.
The price shown is $117.84 per group of up to one person. That wording is unusual, so check the total carefully if more than one person will attend. The value is strongest for a solo visitor or a small booking where personal attention matters more than the lowest possible per-person cost.
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Greyfriars Kirkyard and the many lives of Bobby

Meet just inside the main gate of Greyfriars Kirkyard on Greyfriars Place. The cemetery gives the tour an immediate sense of age and atmosphere, with old stones and a location right in the middle of Edinburgh’s Old Town.
The opening story concerns Greyfriars Bobby, the small dog associated with loyalty and local legend. Robert does not force one neat version of the tale on you. Instead, he explains that several versions exist and lets you consider what may be fact, what may be folklore, and why the story has lasted.
This is a smart way to begin. You get a famous Edinburgh character, but you also learn how city history is made. A story can be meaningful even when every detail cannot be proved. The stop takes about 15 minutes and requires no admission fee.
Greyfriars is also a useful meeting point because it puts you close to several major Old Town routes. Wear shoes that can handle uneven streets and be ready for a walking tour rather than a cemetery visit with long periods of standing in one place.
Candlemaker Row and the Grassmarket’s troubled past

From Greyfriars, the route moves toward Candlemaker Row and the Grassmarket. This part of Edinburgh is visually appealing today, with open space and views toward the castle, but its past is far less tidy.
Robert uses a major Scottish wedding and the route of the pre-wedding party to show how one marriage affected Edinburgh. The subject gives you a different way into the city’s political and social story. Instead of hearing only about kings and battles, you see how a public event could shape local life and opinion.
The Grassmarket also connects naturally to Edinburgh’s criminal past. This was an area where public punishment mattered, and the walk begins to explain how executions worked as public events. The stop lasts about 25 minutes, enough time for a story-led explanation without making you stand in one spot for too long.
I would pay close attention here if you want photographs. The castle views are among the more attractive visual moments on the route, but the focus remains historical rather than scenic. You are there to understand the place, not simply to take a quick picture and move on.
The Royal Mile, from royal childhood to public hanging
The Royal Mile section takes about 40 minutes, making it the longest single part of the walk. That is sensible. This street is the Old Town’s main historical corridor, and a quick pass would miss much of what makes it interesting.
You will visit a location connected with Mary, Queen of Scots’ childhood. The focus is not just on the queen as a famous name. The point is to place her within Edinburgh’s streets and show how royal lives intersected with ordinary urban spaces.
The route also includes a small courtyard with a royal connection. These tucked-away spaces are easy to miss when you are following the crowds along the main street. You might find this one of the most rewarding parts of the walk because the setting is modest, while the story attached to it reaches far beyond the courtyard itself.
Then comes the strange tale of Deacon William Brodie and his hanging. Brodie’s story carries the kind of twist that makes an old city walk memorable. It links respectability, crime, public reputation, and punishment, all against the tight backdrop of Old Town life.
The group also pauses for a short history of St Giles and the old Mercat Cross. The cross was an important civic point, and its connection with Prince Charles Edward Stuart, better known as Bonnie Prince Charlie, gives the stop a strong political charge. You will hear why this location mattered during the Jacobite story rather than treating Bonnie Prince Charlie as just another name from a history book.
The final Royal Mile stop is an atmospheric old close. The exact story is described as memorable, but the important point is the setting: a narrow passage that helps you picture how crowded and enclosed Old Edinburgh could feel. These closes are where a guide can add real value. Without context, you may walk through in seconds. With context, the walls and passage become part of the story.
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Cowgate and the life of Edinburgh’s poor
Cowgate receives only about 10 minutes, but it earns its place. Many Old Town walks concentrate on royalty, grand buildings, and famous names. This stop shifts attention to Victorian poverty and the conditions faced by people living at the bottom of the city’s social order.
That change of focus is important. Edinburgh’s history is not only made up of monarchs, military causes, writers, and notorious criminals. It is also shaped by housing, work, illness, crowding, and survival. Cowgate gives you a brief chance to see the city through that lens.
Do not expect a long social-history lecture here. Ten minutes is enough to establish the subject, not enough to cover every detail. Still, the stop helps prevent the tour from becoming a parade of famous men and dramatic crimes. It gives the route a needed human balance.
Burke, Hare, and the University of Edinburgh
The University of Edinburgh section takes about 30 minutes and includes two stops. The first concerns Burke and Hare, the Irish murderers whose crimes were tied to the demand for bodies for medical study.
Robert explains how the pair operated, why they were able to kill so many people, and what eventually happened to them. This is one of the tour’s darkest sections, but it also shows how medical progress, poverty, crime, and weak safeguards could collide in nineteenth-century Edinburgh.
The story is best suited to you if you enjoy the uncomfortable side of urban history. It is not presented as a simple horror tale. The wider point is how institutions and social conditions created opportunities for terrible acts. You will also have a chance to see the traditional Highland outfit Robert wears, adding a lighter visual moment to an otherwise grim subject.
The final stop is near Old College, or inside it if access is available. The building looks impressive today, but the story attached to it is even more dramatic. The tour describes an event with an explosive, literal quality, making this a strong finish to the historical route.
Access inside Old College is not guaranteed, so treat the interior as a possible extra rather than a promised feature. Even from outside, the stop works because the architecture gives the story a clear setting. You finish near South Bridge, usually about ten minutes from the starting point.
Robert’s style and the value of a local guide
Robert is the key part of the experience. His background as a teacher helps explain why the tour is built around clear stories, questions, visual material, and well-timed stops. He is also described as a lifelong Edinburgh resident, so you get local perspective alongside the historical information.
His approach is lively and occasionally irreverent. If you prefer a quiet, formal lecture, you may find the humor a little much. If you like a guide who can explain difficult subjects without making the walk feel stiff, the style should suit you.
The archive images and props are useful because Old Town buildings can be hard to read at first glance. A photograph of an earlier street scene can show you what has changed. A prop can turn an abstract story into something easier to remember. These touches also help children and teenagers stay involved, though the murder and execution material may not suit every family.
The route can be adapted to your pace and interests. That does not mean the guide can guarantee every possible stop in two hours. It means you can ask questions, slow down, and spend more time on the subjects that matter most to you. Several people who have taken the walk specifically praised the pacing, humor, personal attention, and useful suggestions for other things to do in Edinburgh.
Practical details before you book
The experience lasts about two hours and is offered in English. It is a walking tour with a moderate physical fitness requirement, so you should be comfortable spending the time on foot through the Old Town. The route includes streets, closes, a cemetery, and historic areas where surfaces may not be perfectly even.
The meeting point is the main gate of Greyfriars Kirkyard Cemetery, Greyfriars Place, Edinburgh EH1 2QQ. The usual end point is on South Bridge, close to the start. That makes the tour easy to fit into a day of Old Town sightseeing, since you finish near central routes and public transport.
The tour is private, so only your group takes part. It is offered with a mobile ticket, and service animals are allowed. The experience depends on good weather. If poor weather forces a cancellation, you can choose another date or receive a full refund.
You can cancel for a full refund up to 24 hours before the start time. Changes or cancellations inside that window are not accepted, and the local time in Edinburgh controls the cut-off.
Book as early as you can if your schedule is fixed. This experience is often reserved about 73 days ahead, which suggests that preferred times can fill well before arrival. The provider is Historic Edinburgh Tours.
Who should choose this Edinburgh walk?
I would choose this tour if you want an introduction to Edinburgh that goes beyond the Royal Mile’s shopfronts and castle views. It suits first-time visitors who want a clear story of the Old Town, solo visitors who value conversation, and couples or families who prefer a private pace.
It is also a good match for people who like crime history, royal scandals, local legends, old photographs, and the less polished side of city life. You will get more from it if you enjoy asking questions and connecting separate stories across different parts of the Old Town.
I would choose another experience if your main aim is to enter Edinburgh Castle, spend lots of time inside historic buildings, or focus only on architecture. This route is mostly outdoors, and its strongest material concerns stories attached to streets and sites rather than formal museum displays.
Should you book the Private Old Edinburgh Tour?
Book it if you want a personal, story-driven walk led by Robert, with flexible pacing and an honest look at Edinburgh’s royal, criminal, poor, and political past. The route covers a lot in two hours, and the use of old images helps you picture a city that is no longer visible at street level.
Think twice if executions, murder, prison history, and poverty are not your kind of holiday subject. Also check the price carefully, since the stated $117.84 rate is for a group of up to one person. For a solo visitor or anyone who values a private introduction over a large-group bargain, it offers a focused way to get your bearings in Edinburgh’s Old Town.
FAQ
Where does the tour start?
The tour starts just inside the main gate of Greyfriars Kirkyard Cemetery on Greyfriars Place, Edinburgh EH1 2QQ.
Where does the tour finish?
It usually finishes on South Bridge, about ten minutes from the starting point at Greyfriars Kirkyard.
How long does the walking tour last?
The tour lasts approximately two hours.
Is this a private tour?
Yes. Only your group participates in the activity.
What language is the tour offered in?
The tour is offered in English.
What happens if the weather is poor?
The experience requires good weather. If it is canceled because of poor weather, you will be offered another date or a full refund.
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